Under the guidance of the research station, Nietvoorbij, Rawbone-Viljoen planted an experimental 0,3 hectares with eight different varieties in 1985.

The Nederburg enterprise resulted from a 1984 discussion between a group including Ronnie Melck, MD of Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery (now Distell) and Günter Brözel, Nederburg’s former Cellarmaster. Ernst le Roux, Nederburg’s erstwhile Viticultural Manager, was commissioned to investigate the area further. His climatic research revealed Elgin falls into Region 2 on the Winkler scale with 1432 degree days above 10ºC, thus cooler than Groot Drakenstein, Elsenburg, Groot Constantia and just cooler than Hemel en Aarde. Extensive cloud cover during the growing and ripening season is an influential factor.

De Rust, the Cluver family farm, with its many different aspects and altitudes, sufficient resources and an established infra-structure for grape growing was an appropriate selection for the experiment. What it didn’t have was a KWV production quota, something that had to be procured. How odd it seems today that there ever was such a system, one that was finally sent to its long-overdue grave in 1991!

Chardonnay, pinot noir with smaller blocks of sauvignon blanc, riesling and gewürztraminer were planted in 1986 with the first vintage vinified at Nederburg in 1990. In 1997, Paul Cluver Estate Wines were made in the newly established De Rust cellar and flew solo for the first time.

Oak Valley’s first crop of chardonnay, pinot noir and merlot, were vinified a year later by Peter Finlayson for his maiden Bouchard Finlayson wines in Hemel en Aarde. The first wine under the Oak Valley label, a sauvignon blanc, made its impressive appearance in 2003.

 Both Paul Cluver and Oak Valley have continued to carry the flag for Elgin, in no small part helped by continuity of winemaker. Cluver’s Andries Burger, husband of Inge Cluver, worked in the Nederburg cellar when the first Cluver grapes were harvested and has been winemaker at his in-laws farm since the cellar was inaugurated.

Oak Valley’s Pieter Visser, initially the farm’s viticulturist, learned the winemaking ropes from his Cluver neighbours; his aptitude behind the press is evident from annual improvements in the wines.

Today, the number of producers - some based in Elgin, others buying in fruit - is heading towards 20, with names such as Iona, Neil Ellis, Shannon, Tokara and Thelema's Gyles Webb, with his Sutherland label, adding to the area’s reputation. But there are newcomers to, who, if their early vintages are any indication will strengthen that reputation; Almenkerk and the organically farmed Elgin Ridge are two to remember.

If any variety has become associated with Elgin, it is sauvignon blanc; a recent Elgin Valley Wine Guildevent afforded the opportunity to taste a good many across several vintages. I was encouraged to note there does appear to be a thread common to all, mainly less showy fruit, more minerality and natural acid.

Chardonnay and riesling are other whites which show affinity with the region. Neil Ellis, Iona, Paul Cluver and Oak Valley chardonnays are all tight in youth and benefit from ageing, while the Paul Cluver and Sutherland rieslings should attract more fans to this classic variety and promote further plantings.

It might be early days for pinot noir but there appears to be huge potential: Paul Cluver, Oak Valley (again!), Catherine Marshall, Shannon, Sutherland (2009 a maiden vintage) and Newton Johnson (fruit from the Downes’ Shannon vineyards) are just some carrying on where Peter Finlayson left off nearly 20 years ago.

Cabernet sauvignon has had a rockier ride, with some abandoning it because of ripeness issues, but the success stories don’t play second fiddle to pinot. Among those are South Hill Vineyards and Ross Gower Wines, while Neil Ellis Aenigma and Iona The Gunnar feature cab in their fresh, well-structured Bordeaux-style blends.

And shiraz? For me, the jury’s still out; for all Elgin’s cool climate credentials, they haven’t prevented many high alcohol and over ripe wines, though Gyles Webb’s Sutherland 2008 shiraz, which is not over-ripe, -extracted or –oaked, shows Elgin can produce elegant examples.

As the number of producers increases, so does the varietal spectrum. One wine that has particularly grabbed my imagination is Sutherland Viognier-Roussanne 2009, which, despite being viognier dominant, has modest, interesting aromas and balance in the alcohol department. Built on structure and texture, it is a white wine with red wine intentions and a versatile food partner. At R80 ex Thelema cellar, it is also good value.

Then Gyles Webb is also enthusiastic about a young vineyard of grenache noir …